The Kokoda Trail is a powerful reminder of the sacrifices made by our veterans during WWII.
Bravery Trust Ambassador SQNLDR Adon Lumley recounts his time on one of the world’s most spectacular and challenging treks.
Day 1
Landed in Kokoda, the plateau is peaceful. The valley is green and lush. Jungle surrounds the palm oil plantations.
We fly in a twin otter, and it’s a grass strip.
We tour the memorial and museum and start the hike.
The people are friendly and welcoming with big smiles.
We hike to Deniki, which is 600m elevation gain. We camp looking down at Kokoda. The valley is peaceful, the sunset stunning. It’s hard to imagine the hell that would have been in 1942.
The trail is exactly what I thought, hot, humid, and hard. The mud would be horrendous in the wet. You welcome the rain.
Day 2
Hiked from Deniki to Alola. Another 500m elevation gain. We hiked through beautiful rain forest and gorgeous mountains.
We hiked through Isurava, which is where PTE Bruce Kingsbury won his Victoria Cross. It was quite remarkable to stand there. It was the first time I had been to see where a VC was awarded. It was incredibly emotional to stand where he was shot.
We arrived in camp early, and then the rain had set in. Its pouring rain, my tent is leaking. It is quite unreal to be faced by something as inconvenient as rain, and yet in context, this is nothing compared to those ordinary Australians who stood up when it mattered. I am uncomfortable sleeping in a wet tent, but it reminds me why I am here.
Day 3
Started with being wet. I started cold and wet. It was a steep decent down from Alola, I was crafted a walking stick. However, I fell into the river and lost it.
Today’s conditions were tough and slippery. I fell over more times than I can count.
The dry bag is working wonders. We climbed up a ridgeline that Australian’s used as defensive positions.
We stopped for lunch in a great village, then we hiked in the rain for three hours. We arrived in the destination for the night soaked.
Today was tough. The terrain is relentless. You must respect it.
How they fought here is inspiring. I had thoughts of quitting today, but I reminded myself how tough those men were. How you couldn’t just quit. I remembered why I was doing it. It’s not about me.
Day 4
Alola to Efogi
What an amazing day, we climbed a waterfall.
It was raining it was just incredible. It was tough and hard but just awesome.
It’s not good cause it’s easy. it’s great cause it’s hard.
The trail is relentless.
Day 5 – Anzac Day
We started by hiking up mission ridge, to Brigade Hill. As I led the group up brigade hill, I am greeted by all the stakes signifying the dead and the national flags of Australia and Papua New Guinea.
I am overcome with emotion. It is the first time I have stood where Australians have fought and died. I am humbled, proud, and overcome.
I say the ode, at the service, I am humbled by the opportunity to say it. You have to earn the right to be at Brigade Hill, especially on Anzac Day.
Following the service, we hike down and must do a river crossing. It is overflowing and running rapidly, we have to take our boots off and go across holding a line. No bridge, it’s amazing.
We hike up to Menari, which is amazing. we have lunch, then hike up to the Menari Gap and then down the wall to the Brown River.
Day 6
Today, we hiked for 11 hours. It was a big day.
We started by crossing the Brown River and then through the swamp. It meant a full day with wet feet.
We then did its Nine False summits.
We had lunch at a nice small village.
We hiked for a big stretch to get through it to allow us to get it done. We next pressed on to Isurawari Ridge, the furthest point of Japanese advance. We hiked down to a beautiful village which sets up the last day to Owers’ Corner.
Day 7
Hiked a shorter day due to a big day yesterday. Today, we hiked up to Isurava ridge and down. We are in eyesight of Owers’ Corners. Approx one hour to go.
Overall, this has been one of the hardest and challenging things to do. Its relentless, unforgiving and requires the respect of anyone who does it.
I thought myself well-travelled and capable, yet this has humbled me and reminded me that we need to strengthen our resilience. I have faith in the youth of Australia.
I am amazed at the people of Papua New Guinea. They are kind and happy. Although they are a proud people, that comes from within.
Owen Stanley Ranges are remote, rugged and beautiful. The landscape changes quickly and there are many beautiful things to see. Flowers, butterflies and the complete landscape. The area is isolated but that will change very quickly with solar and starlink.
